Mt makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. The pyramid shape with its south east and north western ridges being most prominent attempting and to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a big step among 8,000m above peaks. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The mountain is impressive with perfect pyramid shape and four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular one. From the base camp glacier, we normally set up 5 camps including camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,390m and a high camp on the north face at 7,640m approx. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Actually Makalu is the only 8,000m peak in Nepalses Himalaya which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. The descending is made via same rout
Trip length: 61 Days
Grade: Extremely strenuous climbing
Accommodation: Comfortable two men tents.
Transportation: Flights
Altitude maximum:8463m
Best Time: Spring April - May / Autumn Oct – Nov
Day 01 Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.
Day 02 Full day sight-seeing tour of Kathmandu valley
Day 03 Expedition briefing & preparation.
Day 04 Fly to Tumlingtar;
Day 05 Trek to Mani Bhanjyang; Camping
Day 06 Trek to Chichila; Camping
Day 07 Trek to Mure/Num; Camping
Day 08 Trek to Murmi Danda/Sedua Area; Camping
Day 09 Trek to Tashigaon; Camping
Day 10 Rest Day
Day 11 Trek to Unshisha; Camping
Day 12 Trek to Khongma; Camping
Day 13 Trek to Nghe Kharka/Mumbuk; Camping
Day 14 Trek to Merek Langmale Kharka; Camping
Day 15 Trek to Makalu base camp; Camping
Day 16 Makalu base camp; Camping
Day 17 to day 45 Climbing period for Mt Makalu
Day 46 to Day 58 Treks back to Tumlingtar
Day 59 Fly out from Tumlingtar to KTM.
Day 60 Free day for Shopping & Evening celebration time
Day 61 Depart for return flight to home
Expedition package cost: USD 11000 per person minimum 4 persons and group join base
Cost includes
5 nights hotel in Kathmandu with daily breakfast.
Peak permit and govt. taxes garbage deposit.
Food for Trekking and Expedition period
Base Camp Guide, Cook and helpers
Porters and other supporting teams to and from Base camp
Kathmandu – Tumlingtar - Kthmandu air fares
Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
Base camp supplies like meals, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table and chairs
Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
City sightseeing before the expedition
Celebration dinner.
Cost excludes
Personal equipment for climbing & trekking
Medical kit bag and medical Insurance of expedition
Climbing gears, Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
Oxygen & Mask -regulator
Bar Bills & beverage
Tips & summit bonus
Trip Preparation
After completing all the logistic process we fly to Tumlingtar just above the Arun River to Makalu Base Camp at approximately 5100 meters. We'll ascend via the Northwest Ridge and establish 4 high camps on the mountain. Our experienced and professional high altitude climbing sherpas will fix ropes as required. According to the client’s fitness, weather condition we'll be climbing up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. Our team work and professional support will make successful scale the summit of Mt Makalu.
Introduction and trip briefing
On our all expedition, we give a short brief about the trip in Kathmandu on the same day of your arrival and introduce your trip guide and team members. At the mean time, we provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions if any about the trip.
Itinerary
The given itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. It is always advised to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations. As the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m and above peaks, it will be necessary to changes to the itinerary maximising the benefit for the team members to ensuring your success on the mountains.
Climbing requirements
Any member in the team should have enough previous high-altitude and general mountaineering experience to climb 8,000m mountain so that it will ensure that the team members are physically, mentally and technically suitably prepared with reasonably self-sufficient for moving between camps unsupervised. Team member’s interest, co-operation, communication or sharing the idea and decision making as per the situation effects the team and summit attempt. And ability/skill of using gears and working on crevasse rescue techniques. So if you meet above requirements you can join this fully supported expedition.
Local supporting experts
Every fully supported expedition, we provide an experience Sherpa climbing guides and other high altitude assistants for load-carrying, base camp establishment and stocking of camps. These Sherpas have many ascents of 8,000m peaks in the Nepalese Himalaya accompanying the team for summit attempt.
Oxygen supplies
We advice to take at least 6 bottles of oxygen for above camp two to increase the speed further climb. Oxygen should be latest with most advanced oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery, such that little oxygen is wasted, and you benefit as best as possible from carrying the additional weight of the cylinder. The oxygen can be purchased in kathmandu as well as there are advanced supplying stores.
Medical supplies
There should be a supply of oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies for the climbers and crews. We supply a comprehensive first aid kit during the expedition and a portable hyperbaric chamber which will be kept during the climb at the base camp or advance base camps.
Communications
We provide satellite, hand-held telephones during the expedition, for use anywhere in Nepal - including the mountain, whether base camp or summit! We suggest to you’re your own satellite that has a broadband data connection and laptop for Internet access.
So there is possibility of communication during the expedition between all climbers.
Equipment
Good quality and enough climbing equipments are most important for a successful summit attempt. We provide all group equipments like ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel. Climbers need to provide your own personal equipment like Ice axe, Crampons,
Harness, Figure 8 Descender, Helmet, Prussik loops, Ascender, 3 x tape slings, 4 x screwgate karabiners, Five season sleeping bag, Down suit or duvet/salopette combination and Double HA Mountaineering Boots (La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest or Scarpa Phantom 8000 etc).
Travel insurance
We suggest and t is a condition of traveling with us that you must be fully insured, including emergency evacuation air rescue services and all medical expenses. You decide and choose what amount and types of is insurance is suitable for your trip nature as some does buy cancellation and only for certain period of time. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m and above peaks through the National alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly good packages.