Mardi Himal Peak Climbing

An overview

Mardi Himal (5,587 m) lies less than 15 miles from Pokhara, and is the most southerly peak of the Annapurna range. It is the lowest and the least climbed or visited peak. Photographs of Mardi Himal taken in 1953 by Baisl Goodfellow first drew the attention of western climbers, and the mountain received its first ascent in 1961. The first route was via the East Flank and is the only one used so far.

The mountain separates the southwest ridge of Machhapuchhare as a separate mass at right angles to the ridge and is best seen from the south. The southwest face of the mountain has three well-defined ridges rising from rock buttresses and separated by hanging glaciers. Its east face is separated from the Machhapuchhare ridge by a col at 5,200 meters. The normal climbing route to the summit of Mardi Himal passes through this col. The summit offers a splendid view of the Annapurna Range and the Fishtail mountain - Machhapuchhare.

The valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal are steep and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron. Alpine pastures above the forest provide a good habitat for wildlife.