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Makalu mountain Expedition in Nepal

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61
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US$ 1,500
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Max. Elevation
8463 m / 27765 ft
Group size
1 - 20 pax
Level
Difficult
Transportation
All around transportation and domestic flight as per Itinerary
Best Season
Mar - May, Sep - Nov
Starts at / Ends at
Kathmandu / Kathmandu
Accomodation
3*** Hotel in Kathmandu and Tea House / Lodge during the trek
Meals
All meals during the trek and breakfast in Kathmandu
Trip Route

Highlights

Overview

Mount Makalu climbing expedition information l climbing itinerary and route l base camp height l camps before summit l gears and equipments l expedition duration l climbing sherpa guides l organizer company in Nepal l best times l permits fee l package cost l logistic and base camp service l full service

Makalu mountain climbing expedition in Nepal
Mount Makalu and climbing information: Mt Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. The pyramid shape with its south east and north western ridges being most prominent attempting and to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a big step among 8,000m above peaks. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.

The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The mountain is impressive with perfect pyramid shape and four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular one. From the base camp glacier, we normally set up 5 camps including camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,390m and a high camp on the north face at 7,640m approx. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Actually Makalu is the only 8,000m peak in Nepalses Himalaya which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.  The descending is made via same route.

The Camps
Normally we set up five camps above base camp and before attempting the summit.

Advance Base Camp at 5,700m. approx
The route from base camp to Advance Base Camp is across glacial moraine and boulder fields, to a campsite on a rocky promontory. The glacier is crevassed in places with some avalanche danger from falling seracs.

Camp 1 at 6,347m. approx
Easy angled snow slopes lead in a north eastern direction in and around seracs. At 6,550m there is a steeper section of blue ice and a complex area of wide, open crevasses and snow bridges, which will be fixed with rope.

Camp 2 at 6,670m. approx
The route goes straight up where camp 2 is located in a small, flat sheltered area by some ice walls.

Camp 3 at 7,450m. approx
A snow slope leads to the bottom of rocks at 6,990m and a technical section of mixed climbing approaching at an altitude of 7,250m and further to an open snow slope leads to the next mixed section and eventually the Makalu La at 7,450m.

Camp 4 at 7,600m. approx
The route from camp 3 traverses to the left, before following snow slopes to a serac band at 7,600m where the camp 4 is established

Summit/Descent
A steep ice band is traversed and then a huge snow ramp leads to a heavily crevassed plateau. The summit ridge is extremely exposed, with summit towers which need to be negotiated en route to the top taking about 15 hrs including the descent by the same route requiring you to abseil with some difficulties

Important Note

Trip Itinerary






















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Includes

  • 5 nights hotel in Kathmandu with daily breakfast.      
  • Peak permit and govt. taxes garbage deposit.
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period
  • Base Camp Guide, Cook and helpers
  • Porters and other supporting teams to and from Base camp
  • Kathmandu – Tumlingtar - Kthmandu air fares
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Base camp supplies like meals, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table and chairs
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
  • City sightseeing before the expedition
  • Celebration dinner.

Doesn't Include

  • Personal equipment for climbing & trekking
  • Medical kit bag and medical Insurance of expedition
  • Climbing gears, Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed
  • Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Tips & summit bonus  

Trip Info

Expedition preparation
We get the necessary logistic and other supports before the clients arrive in kathmandu. On second day, the group will have to attend the briefing about the expedition at the ministry of tourism and after all the things complete

We fly to Tumlingtar and begin our dreamed expedition steps up the high-altitude terrains, beautiful landscapes and highlanders ethnic lifestyle. We will establish our base camp at 5245m and climb further setting 3 camps before summit attempt.

Introduction and briefing
On our all expedition, we give a short brief about the trip in Kathmandu on the same day of your arrival and introduce your trip guide and team members. At the mean time, we provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions if any about the trip.

Expedition Itinerary
The given itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. It is always advised to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations. As the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m and above peaks, it will be necessary to changes to the itinerary maximising the benefit for the team members to ensuring your success on the mountains.

Climbing requirements
Any member in the team should have enough previous high-altitude and general mountaineering experience to climb 8,000m mountain so that it will ensure that the team members are physically, mentally and technically suitably prepared with reasonably self-sufficient for moving between camps unsupervised. Team member’s interest, co-operation, communication or sharing the idea and decision making as per the situation effects the team and summit attempt. And ability/skill of using gears and working on crevasse rescue techniques.  So if you meet above requirements you can join this fully supported expedition.

Local supporting staffs
Every fully supported expedition, we provide an experience Sherpa climbing guides and other high altitude assistants for load-carrying, base camp establishment and stocking of camps. These Sherpas have many ascents of 8,000m peaks in the Nepalese Himalaya accompanying the team for summit attempt.

Oxygen supply
We advice to take at least 6 bottles of oxygen for above camp two to increase the speed further climb. Oxygen should be latest with most advanced oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery, such that little oxygen is wasted, and you benefit as best as possible from carrying the additional weight of the cylinder. The oxygen can be purchased in kathmandu as well as there are advanced supplying stores.

Medical supply
There should be a supply of oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies for the climbers and crews. We supply a comprehensive first aid kit during the expedition and a portable hyperbaric chamber which will be kept during the climb at the base camp or advance base camps.

Communications
We provide satellite, hand-held telephones during the expedition, for use anywhere in Nepal - including the mountain, whether base camp or summit! We suggest to you’re your own satellite that has a broadband data connection and laptop for Internet access.

So there is possibility of communication during the expedition between all climbers.

Equipments
Good quality and enough climbing equipments are most important for a successful summit attempt. We provide all group equipments like ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel. Climbers need to provide your own personal equipment like Ice axe, Crampons,

Harness, Figure 8 Descender, Helmet, Prussik loops, Ascender, 3 x tape slings, 4 x screwgate karabiners, Five season sleeping bag,  Down suit or duvet/salopette combination and Double HA Mountaineering Boots (La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest or Scarpa Phantom 8000 etc).

Insurance
We suggest and t is a condition of travelling with us that you must be fully insured, including emergency evacuation air rescue services and all medical expenses. You decide and choose what amount and types of is insurance is suitable for your trip nature as some does buy cancellation and only for certain period of time. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m and above peaks through the National alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly good packages.
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Equipment List

Mount Makalu and climbing information: Mt Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border.

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Art representing various natural and cultutal heritages of Nepal