Overview
Mount Dhaulagiri climbing expedition information l climbing route map l base camp height l camps before summit l gears and equipments l expedition duration l climbing sherpa guides l organizer company in Nepal l best times l permits fee l package cost l logistic and base camp service l full service
Mt. Dhalugiri peak climbing expedition in Nepal
Dhaulagiri peak and climbing information: Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m) is the seventh highest mountain in the world which is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. The first successful ascent was made by an eight member of a Swiss expedition in 1960. Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. Four of these summits, numbered from east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.
The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass, French col to approach the summit from the North – East col. There has been many attempts made by various mountaineering expedition team and recently an Italian team has successfully climbed the mountain during spring season. The expedition is perfect trip for those who want a more intense experience of the mountains.
On Chhonbardan glacier below rocky knob; the mountain has typical weather conditions which is very difficult to predict. The wind velocity is tremendous in this area, almost from afternoon to the dawn it is windy continuously.
Detailed Itinerary
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02:Full day sight-seeing of Bouddhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan durbar square and khokana.
Day 03:Expedition briefing and get final preparation of the expedition
Day 04:Drive to Baglung, trek to Beni.
Day 05:Trek to Tatopani (1189m).
Day 06:Trek to Ghasa (2012m).
Day 07:Trek to Tukuche (2591m).
Day 08:Trek to Marpha (2667m). Change porters.
Day 09:Trek to Yak Kharka
Day 10:Trek to French Col
Day 11:Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp
Day 12-49:Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri
Day 50:Clean up Base Camp
Day 51:Trek to Dhampus Col
Day 52:Trek to Marpha. Overnight in lodge.
Day 53:Trek to Jomsom. Overnight in lodge.
Day 54:Fly Jomsom / Pokhara / Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
Day 55:Rest and relax day in Kathmandu.
Day 56:Departure preparation and join celebration party.
Day 57:Departure from Kathmandu.
Mt. Dhaulagiri climbing expedition cost
1 Person USD 23500.00
2 Persons USD 13700.00 Per Person
3 Persons USD 10500.00 Per Person
4 Persons USD 8500.00 Per Person
5 Persons USD 7800.00 Per Person
6-8 Persons USD 7500.00 Per Person
8-10 Persons USD 7000.00 Per Person
11 and above Persons USD 6800.00 Per Person
Climbing Sherpa guide USD 2,900.00 Per guide
Cost includes:
- Arrival and departure transfers
- Royalty permit fee of Dhaulagiri Expedition
- Food for Trekking and Expedition period
- Base Camp Guide, Cook and helpers
- Porters and other supporting teams to and from Base camp
- Kathmandu -Pokhara-Beni- Kathmandu Land Transportation
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
- Base camp supplies like meals, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table and chairs
- 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast
- Personal equipment for climbing & trekking
- Medical kit bag and medical Insurance of expedition
- Climbing gears, Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed
- Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator
- Bar Bills & beverage
Note: Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing between total participant) and deposit fee will be not refunded if the climber don't bring back their garbage
Equiment Checklist
Personal Equipments:
- Down sleeping bag, down jacket/trouser
- Climbing boot double best company
- Ice-axe with ice hammer, crampons
- Harness, get up, snow glass, slings
- Main rope, Ice crew, sable small, mattress,
- Carabiners, helmet, pulleys and ascenders
- Wind proof jacket & trouser, water bottle
- Down and wind proof trouser, nuts, camp device
- Woolen glove, wind mask, Shocks, medicine, eight finger, knife
Group Equipments:
- Fixed rope, main rope, medicine
- Oxygen, mask and regulator
- Climbing tents, food, fuel, light
Trip Essential Information
Expedition preparation
After completing all the logistic of the expedition, we start the dreamed journey from Katmandu with a short flight or 6 hrs drive to Pokhara or even direct drive to Beni from Kathmandu. Few days trek in lower part and crossing the glacier French pass and Dhampus pass is a perfect training and well acclimatization. We reach the Dhaulagiri Base Camp and set the camps 4740m. According to the client’s fitness, weather condition we'll be climbing up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps.
Introduction and briefing
On our all expedition, we give a short brief about the trip in Kathmandu on the same day of your arrival and introduce your trip guide and team members. At the mean time, we provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions if any about the trip.
Expedition Itinerary
The given itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. It is always advised to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations. As the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m and above peaks, it will be necessary to changes to the itinerary maximising the benefit for the team members to ensuring your success on the mountains.
Climbing requirements
Any member in the team should have enough previous high-altitude and general mountaineering experience to climb 8,000m mountain so that it will ensure that the team members are physically, mentally and technically suitably prepared with reasonably self-sufficient for moving between camps unsupervised. Team member’s interest, co-operation, communication or sharing the idea and decision making as per the situation effects the team and summit attempt. And ability/skill of using gears and working on crevasse rescue techniques. So if you meet above requirements you can join this fully supported expedition.
Local supporting staffs
Every fully supported expedition, we provide an experience Sherpa climbing guides and other high altitude assistants for load-carrying, base camp establishment and stocking of camps. These Sherpas have many ascents of 8,000m peaks in the Nepalese Himalaya accompanying the team for summit attempt.
Oxygen supply
We advice to take at least 6 bottles of oxygen for above camp two to increase the speed further climb. Oxygen should be latest with most advanced oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery, such that little oxygen is wasted, and you benefit as best as possible from carrying the additional weight of the cylinder. The oxygen can be purchased in Kathmandu as well as there are advanced supplying stores.
Medical supply
There should be a supply of oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies for the climbers and crews. We supply a comprehensive first aid kit during the expedition and a portable hyperbaric chamber which will be kept during the climb at the base camp or advance base camps.
Communications
We provide satellite, hand-held telephones during the expedition, for use anywhere in Nepal - including the mountain, whether base camp or summit! We suggest to you’re your own satellite that has a broadband data connection and laptop for Internet access.
So there is possibility of communication during the expedition between all climbers.
Equipments
Good quality and enough climbing equipments are most important for a successful summit attempt. We provide all group equipments like ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel. Climbers need to provide your own personal equipment like Ice axe, Crampons,
Harness, Figure 8 Descender, Helmet, Prussik loops, Ascender, 3 x tape slings, 4 x screwgate karabiners, Five season sleeping bag, Down suit or duvet/salopette combination and Double HA Mountaineering Boots (La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest or Scarpa Phantom 8000 etc).
Insurance
We suggest and t is a condition of traveling with us that you must be fully insured, including emergency evacuation air rescue services and all medical expenses. You decide and choose what amount and types of is insurance is suitable for your trip nature as some does buy cancellation and only for certain period of time. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m and above peaks through the National alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly good packages.
Departure Dates
No fixed departures.
