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Makalu mountain Expedition in Nepal

Trip code
Package name Makalu mountain Expedition in Nepal
Duration 61
Max. elevation 8463 m
Level Difficult
Transportation All around transportation and domestic flight as per Itinerary
Accomodation 3*** Hotel in Kathmandu and Tea House / Lodge during the trek
Starts at Kathmandu
Ends at Kathmandu
Trip route
Cost USD 19,500 per person

Highlights

Overview

Mount Makalu climbing expedition information l climbing itinerary and route l base camp height l camps before summit l gears and equipments l expedition duration l climbing sherpa guides l organizer company in Nepal l best times l permits fee l package cost l logistic and base camp service l full service

Makalu mountain climbing expedition in Nepal
Mount Makalu and climbing information: Mt Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. The pyramid shape with its south east and north western ridges being most prominent attempting and to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a big step among 8,000m above peaks. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.

The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The mountain is impressive with perfect pyramid shape and four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular one. From the base camp glacier, we normally set up 5 camps including camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,390m and a high camp on the north face at 7,640m approx. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Actually Makalu is the only 8,000m peak in Nepalses Himalaya which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.  The descending is made via same route.

The Camps
Normally we set up five camps above base camp and before attempting the summit.

Advance Base Camp at 5,700m. approx
The route from base camp to Advance Base Camp is across glacial moraine and boulder fields, to a campsite on a rocky promontory. The glacier is crevassed in places with some avalanche danger from falling seracs.

Camp 1 at 6,347m. approx
Easy angled snow slopes lead in a north eastern direction in and around seracs. At 6,550m there is a steeper section of blue ice and a complex area of wide, open crevasses and snow bridges, which will be fixed with rope.

Camp 2 at 6,670m. approx
The route goes straight up where camp 2 is located in a small, flat sheltered area by some ice walls.

Camp 3 at 7,450m. approx
A snow slope leads to the bottom of rocks at 6,990m and a technical section of mixed climbing approaching at an altitude of 7,250m and further to an open snow slope leads to the next mixed section and eventually the Makalu La at 7,450m.

Camp 4 at 7,600m. approx
The route from camp 3 traverses to the left, before following snow slopes to a serac band at 7,600m where the camp 4 is established

Summit/Descent
A steep ice band is traversed and then a huge snow ramp leads to a heavily crevassed plateau. The summit ridge is extremely exposed, with summit towers which need to be negotiated en route to the top taking about 15 hrs including the descent by the same route requiring you to abseil with some difficulties

Trip Itinerary

Day 1 : Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.


Day 2 : Full day sight-seeing tour of Kathmandu valley


Day 3 : Expedition briefing & preparation.


Day 4 : Fly to Tumlingtar;


Day 5 : Trek to Mani Bhanjyang; Camping


Day 6 : Trek to Chichila; Camping


Day 7 : Trek to Mure/Num; Camping


Day 8 : Trek to Murmi Danda/Sedua Area; Camping


Day 9 : Trek to Tashigaon; Camping


Day 10 : Rest Day


Day 11 : Trek to Unshisha; Camping


Day 12 : Trek to Khongma; Camping


Day 13 : Trek to Nghe Kharka/Mumbuk; Camping


Day 14 : Trek to Merek Langmale Kharka; Camping


Day 15 : Trek to Makalu base camp 5245m; Camping


Day 16 : Makalu base camp; Camping


Day 17 : Climbing period for Mt Makalu


Day 46 : Treks back to Tumlingtar


Day 59 : Fly back to Kathmandu


Day 60 : Free day for Shopping & Evening celebration time


Day 61 : Depart for return flight to home


Inclusions

What is included?

What isn't included?

Complimentary

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