Mt. Ama Dablam 6812m. is located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region and is considered a most technical-difficult climbing. Mt. Ama Dablam stands among many high peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges.
The normal climbing route is from its south-west ridge. There are difficult ice and rock to be crossed while ascending the mountain. Normally climbers have to set 3 high camps before the summit. The trail passes few difficult saddle ridges; rocky ground and the boulder to get the first camp then climb the ridge through the fix lines crossing several rocky and snow boul to the camp second.
The trail leads to the steeply mixed alleyways of rocks, ice and snow ridge to get to the third camp from where we it is steep climb on snow following the right of a huge hanging glacier. The summit of Mt. Ama Dablam offers magnificent views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Island peak, Makalu, Khumbu Himalayan surrounding.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02: Full day Sight-seeing tours of the valley.
Day 03: Expedition preparation and attend for bra briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding - Camp or Lodge.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar - Camp or Lodge.
Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization - Camp or Lodge.
Day 07: Trek to Tengboche Monastery Camp or Lodge.
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche.
Day 09: Trek to Island Peak Base camp.
Day 10: Climb to high Camp.
Day 11: Climb summit 6089m. back to Chukkung.
Day 12: Trek to Dingboche - Ama Dablam Base.
Day 13: Climbing preparations.
Day 14-28: Climbing period for Ama Dablam.
Day 29: Trek back to Namche -Camp or Lodge.
Day 30: Trek to Lukla -Camp or Lodge.
Day 31: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.
Day 32: Kathmandu.
Day 33: Kathmandu.
Day 34: Final Departure.
- Arrival and departure transfers.
- Royalty permit fee of Ama Dablam Expedition.
- Food for Trekking and Expedition period.
- Base Camp Guide, Cook, and helpers.
- Porters and other supporting teams to and from Basecamp.
- Kathmandu – Lukla - Kathmandu air fares.
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, the expedition crew.
- Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
- Basecamp supplies like meals, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table, and chairs.
- 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast.
- Personal equipment for climbing & trekking.
- Medical kit bag and medical Insurance of expedition.
- Climbing gears, Climbing food, Gas & stove above Basecamp.
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
- Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed.
- Walki Takie permit set & Satellite phone permit.
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
- Bar Bills & beverage.
Climbing equipments and requirements
Harness, carabiner, down Jacket, crampons
Eight finger, fix rope, rock piton, gas stove
Nuts and camping device, slings , ascender
Gloves, sunglass, harness, head light
Helmet, Ice axe, ice crew, pulleys
Ice hammer, main rope, mattress, sable
Max regulator, oxygen slender, rucksack
Safety belt, sleeping bag, snow bar, sticks
Tape sling, water bottle, zumar, tent, food, light
Climbing suit, waterproof trouser, gas, fuel, cooking pot
Trip Essential Information
After completing all the logistic process we fly to Lukla just above Dudh Koshi River. We'll ascend via the Namche bazaar and visit mt Everest Base Camp or climb one the trekking peaks for well acclimatization before heading to the mt. Ama Dablam base Camp. It is well organizes at the Base Camp for food, tent and rest. Our experienced and professional high altitude climbing sherpas will fix ropes as required and set the camps. According to the client’s fitness, weather condition we'll be climbing up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. Our team work and professional support will make successful scale the summit of Mt. Ama Dablam.
Introduction and briefing:
On our all expedition, we give a short brief about the trip in Kathmandu on the same day of your arrival and introduce your trip guide and team members. At the mean time, we provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions if any about the trip.
The given itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. It is always advised to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations. As the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m and above peaks, it will be necessary to changes to the itinerary maximising the benefit for the team members to ensuring your success on the mountains.
Any member in the team should have enough previous high-altitude and general mountaineering experience to climb 8,000m mountain so that it will ensure that the team members are physically, mentally and technically suitably prepared with reasonably self-sufficient for moving between camps unsupervised. Team member’s interest, co-operation, communication or sharing the idea and decision making as per the situation effects the team and summit attempt. And ability/skill of using gears and working on crevasse rescue techniques. So if you meet above requirements you can join this fully supported expedition.
Local supporting staffs:
Every fully supported expedition, we provide an experience Sherpa climbing guides and other high altitude assistants for load-carrying, base camp establishment and stocking of camps. These Sherpas have many ascents of 8,000m peaks in the Nepalese Himalaya accompanying the team for summit attempt.
We advice to take at least 6 bottles of oxygen for above camp two to increase the speed further climb. Oxygen should be latest with most advanced oxygen mask to ensure efficient delivery, such that little oxygen is wasted, and you benefit as best as possible from carrying the additional weight of the cylinder. The oxygen can be purchased in kathmandu as well as there are advanced supplying stores.
There should be a supply of oxygen at base camp for medical emergencies for the climbers and crews. We supply a comprehensive first aid kit during the expedition and a portable hyperbolic chamber which will be kept during the climb at the base camp or advance base camps.
We provide satellite, hand-held telephones during the expedition, for use anywhere in Nepal - including the mountain, whether base camp or summit! We suggest to you’re your own satellite that has a broadband data connection and laptop for Internet access. So there is possibility of communication during the expedition between all climbers.
Good quality and enough climbing equipments are most important for a successful summit attempt. We provide all group equipments like ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel. Climbers need to provide your own personal equipment like Ice axe, Crampons, Harness, Figure 8 Descender, Helmet, Prussik loops, Ascender, 3 x tape slings, 4 x screwgate karabiners, Five season sleeping bag, Down suit or duvet/salopette combination and Double HA Mountaineering Boots (La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest or Scarpa Phantom 8000 etc).
We suggest and t is a condition of travelling with us that you must be fully insured, including emergency evacuation air rescue services and all medical expenses. You decide and choose what amount and types of is insurance is suitable for your trip nature as some does buy cancellation and only for certain period of time. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m and above peaks through the National alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly good packages.